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RWD isn't really an issue in snow.
Snow tires + traction control will get you through all but the deepest of days.
Also, we don't have as many days with snow covered roads as most people think. Assuming you don't live in the snowbelt areas, you're probably looking at 5-10 days a year, tops, where you aren't driving on pavement.
Then I would look to deal with whomever you are paying. Isn't there normally a cash back option for this reason.
I'm assuming that there is no "cash discount". I wouldn't likely finance through a dealer anyway, but if there was that would factor into the decision.
I can pay cash for cars, but I have to pull money out of investments to do so. I have investments earning 5%-10% a year, and someone offers me a 2% loan for a car? I'm taking the loan. It makes sense to take the loan and keep my money earning interest in my accounts, right?
The other poster was saying that under no circumstance should you borrow money to pay for a car, even at 0% interest. I don't like debt, but sometimes taking a loan makes more sense.
My actuary 16 year old daughter who just got her license Friday ran those exact numbers by me. I told her to get her actuary butt back to her slide rule and figure in insurance and gas and oil changes and add in the human cost of worry. Nobody works those numbers into that ever.
You mean a bank? That's where I've gone to finance cars in the past, not the dealer. MSUFCU makes this really easy and sends you a blank check that is good up to whatever pre-approved amount you qualify for. You pay the seller (dealer or private) on the spot, and walk away.
I haven't financed a car in a long time, but I'm not sure what you're talking about with the discount or "cash back option".
The insurance, gas and oil changes would be the same regardless, unless I buy a car taht includes oil changes, or a Volt (which I considered). Human cost of worry is higher in my old Saturn, well except I don't worry when it gets dinged up now and then.
Unless I lease, which I did for the wife's Enclave, I will use MSUFCU. Simply too easy to not do so.
Just going off my last lease. $26,000 Mazda3 for $270/month
Makes sense to get things lined up with MSUFCU ahead of time, and then you have a competitive rate to compare to other offers that the dealers may have too. MSUFCU is advertising a 2.19% auto loan right now. I can't imagine anyone beating that.
There's tons of topics on the internet on how to calculate a lease rate. You have to factor in the residual value (what the car is worth at the end of the lease) and the interest rate, plus mileage fees, etc.
Not all $25,000 cars are going to lease for $300/mo on a 36 month lease.
How many miles per year and did you put money down? Mazda is giving great deals on 6's these days.
I didn't say they all do. They can be found, though.
First month's payment. 12,000 miles/year.
I used the x-plan discount and Mazda loyalty as well.
If you can stay under the 15k miles, lease. If not, buy.
Why would you want to build equity in a depreciating asset? I understand the desire to eliminate a continuing payment, but the builidng equity arguement is weak.
VW has some great leae deals available and the new Passat is a nice car.
This post was edited by rob 13 months ago
"I think the world is run by C students"
After owning several cars that I owned until they virtually died, I'm not sure there is any point where you really own equity in a car. The value drops to fast, then they need work, then you get dinged at the store, etc. etc. etc. Leasing the first time ever with the wife's car, primarily because it kept the price in budget and let us buy a nicer car, and she drives less then 10k per year.
Do Dealers negotiate on used car prices any more? I know you can negotiate new prices a bit down to the invoice price, but the last time I tried on a used car most dealers had the "no haggle pricing".
Yes, everything is negotiable. Dealing on used cars is often easier than new.
If you don't feel like you're getting a good deal, go somewhere else. The cars you are buying are plentiful and readily available. It should be pretty simple to find out what others are selling for.
Having said that, if you walk in and demand $2000 off an already competitively priced car, you might be disappointed in the result.
You are right then, if your investments are making more than it is worth taking the interest free loan. No point in giving anyone a lump sum if they are not going to give you a discount. You are better off making the interest and only giving them the least amount needed.
Chrysler is replacing the 200 fairly soon, so market value on the existing model may drop. Something to consider.
I don't understand why you would look for a used car when you already have one that only has 100k miles on it? Already paid for. Why not just keep driving the saturn? 2007 is not that old. 100k miles isn't bad at all unless you're trying to impress someone. I think you'd be crazy to get rid of that car. If you trade that thing in, the dealer is going to sell it for 2,000 to 4,000$ more than they give you.
If you are getting lease quotes and are looking at a lower end model of the car (i.e. cloth, front wheel drive, etc), make sure to have the same vehicle with more options priced as well. Sometimes the residual value of the car (the amount it's worth at the end of the lease) is so much higher that the lease rate drops. I've gotten a car with a $3K higher MSRP for a cheaper lease rate.
Note: I haven't read anything in this thread.
This post was edited by theSpartan 13 months ago
Look you stupid pansies. You buy cash and drive into ground. Put excess $$ into stocks = profit. Dumb fucks.
Keeping the sunshiners in check since 2000.
Cool idea bro. I'm sure you're willing to give the cash so that those who aren't wealthy ballers like you can follow your advice.
I can do Ford or Toyota. Corolla, Camry, focus, fusion?
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