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EdMartinsLoan ●
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SPARTASOTAN
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SPARTASOTAN said...
I had a deck restoration division of the business I owned for 8 years. Best is composite for ease of care. I would never do pressure treated. DO NOT do anything to cedar first year. Use Sherwin products for cleaning and staining. I would recommend a semi-transparent water based stain of your color choice. When pressure washing, practice on a scrap board laid in the driveway or such. Key is to be about 6 inches from wood at a slight angle, using correct spray nozzle attachment. Talk to Sherwin guys about all facets. I have personally done about 500 decks myself and usually last about 5 years (in harsh Minnesota) before having to touch again.
Spartytruth
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ROtown Sparty
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oldgreentar1 said...
Use the ledger board. I have built more decks then I care to count for friends and have done all of them with a ledger(never had one that leaked). Besides it eliminates one row of post. What is easier, putting in about a few lag bolts(or just tapcons) or digging post holes and filling with conc? If you ever wrestle with a power auger I think you will know the answer. Definitely use conc. not stone or gravel on the rest of post. Now days you don't have to set the post into the conc. Just pour the conc. a couple of inches higher then the surrounding finish grade. Once exact post locations are determined tapcon post holders into the top of footings and insert and nail post into holder. Once beams and joist are set, trim post as needed keeping the perimeter post extended if you intend to use them for your handrail. The rest is simple stuff . Good luck and my bill is in the mail.
This post was edited by Uncle Awesome on 6/2/2011 at 9:20 AM
Uncle Awesome
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Uncle Awesome said...
My main concern with the ledger board is it would go into veneer bricks (the ones that arent solid but have 3 holes vertically in yhe center). Anyone know if this would hold or would the brick crumble? The facing of some against our front steps has crumbled and i dont want the ledger ripping out of weak bricks. Thoughts?
Edit: Also - are those bricks really veneer bricks? I think of veneer as just a thin layer of fake brick but the guy who did our inspection and appraisal called them veneer. These are actual bricks, not just a fake layer...would the center holes be filled with mortar and thus be able to support a ledger?
This post was edited by vator88 on 6/2/2011 at 10:04 AM
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EdMartin'sLoan said...
If I had to do it all over again I would go with the composite. Within a year the deck looks like hell. I get pine sap all over it and if you power wash it too hard you screw up the grain in the wood. Looking to put a spa outside and when I do the entire thing is going to be ripped up and replaced.
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vator88 said...
The brick will crumble, do not use brick as an anchor, you have to go into conrete or thru to the rim joist.
Also, make sure you are using a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill the holes. A masonry bit with a regular drill will a) take forever and b) likely destroy the bit and maybe the drill depending on how many holes you drill. A hammer drill and masonry bit will cut right into it almost like drilling into wood.
"This board would be great if it weren't for all the posters. ." -- AA Spartan 12/16/11
IB Fine
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Uncle Awesome
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vator88 said...
Go to the lumber yard and get the name of a guy who digs post holes for a living. For about the same cost of renting a post hole digger he'll come out and dig the post holes for you. They usually charge 8-10 bucks per hole, and will be done in about 30 minutes. You and your buddy will spend half a day going to get the machine, screwing around figuring out how to use it, then returning the machine. Sink them to 42 inches, fill with concrete and put brackets in the wet concrete to hold the posts. Don't sink the posts into the concrete.
Uncle Awesome
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Uncle Awesome said...
Bump - Forgot to update this last year, but was staining the stairs today and thought about this.
Finished up last year, with some to do's for this spring (stain stairs, add lattice, etc). Ended up going with:
16'x29' Treated for the joists/ledgers Cedar for everything else
We ended up not attaching to the house with a ledger. I wasn't comfortable doing that so we added in an extra row of supports and there isn't a creak or noise out of it.. The cedar looks awesome. I knew going into it that it would be soft and scratch up a bit, so I have had no issues there. The staining takes a whole afternoon, but I actually kind of enjoy taking care of it after I put so much time into it. I had help getting the holes augured and the joists/beams in. After that I built the rest myself and hand build each section of the railing.
Had my father in law install a sliding door for easy access too and then we put in a little vegetable garden in front with left over lattice to keep out the rascally rabbits.
The main issue I had was when I got about 4-5 rows of boards down a storm knocked a neighbors tree right onto the section I had finished. Only had 2 boards break, so I got lucky there.
As for stain, I used a semi-transparent called ReadySeal. So far no major issues. Went on easy and seems to do its job pretty well. I re-stained today because I had leftover and I had to do the stairs anyway, but probably didn't need to.
Sparts
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GRR Spartan ●
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Uncle Awesome
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Home Improvement Gurus - Deck Advice (Updated w/Pics)