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BH Spartan said...
You have to be careful with airlocks - the wort could be fully fermented (I guess it is beer and not wort at this point) and still be releasing CO2, causing your airlock to bubble. I think you are doing the right thing by not touching it for 10-12 days, but I'm guessing it is done fermenting well before that.
By yeast handling, I mean pitching the right amount of healthy yeast. I'm a big believer in using an active yeast starter - I am usually done fermenting within 3-4 days for ales, including big belgians and barley wines.
As for the guy that said something about barleywines - I'd recommend going out and buying one or two to check it out. I've brewed a few and they really aren't much different than other beers, except you need to pay special attention to your recipe (may need to add sugar), yeast (you need a lot of it) and fermentation temps (really need to ferment cool to avoid excess alcohol flavors from developing).
Phil McCrackin
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john winger said...
did you mean to say your first partial MASH? nice work on the partial mash
all boils are partial boils unless you are fortunate enough to have a nice outdoor space with a sweet propane burner and large kettle let allows you boil all 5 gallons (you actually start with 8 gallons of water).
if you add any water after boiling its a partial boil. i have recently switched to only making 3 gallon batches because i can easily boil 3 gallons of wort on my stove in a timely manner, but 3 gallons is about my limit.
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john winger said...
did you mean to say your first partial MASH? nice work on the partial mash
all boils are partial boils unless you are fortunate enough to have a nice outdoor space with a sweet propane burner and large kettle let allows you boil all 5 gallons (you actually start with 8 gallons of water).
if you add any water after boiling its a partial boil. i have recently switched to only making 3 gallon batches because i can easily boil 3 gallons of wort on my stove in a timely manner, but 3 gallons is about my limit.
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Phil McCrackin said...
I may give a 2.5 gallon batch a try... I would assume you can just cut the ingredients in half?
Is there an advantage to doing a full boil vs. partial boil?
Would be interesting to experiment with smaller batches. That way if something is terrible, you don't have to dump out as much beer.
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Klevin Torborg ●
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john winger said...
Since there is no damn multi-quote
phil, first know that i brew all my beer on my stove. my stove is just powerful enough to boil 3 gallons in a timely manner. if i could boil more than 3 gallons i would, but its not practical on my stove. the goal is to always boil as much water as you can, or achieve the "full boil".
when you do a full boil batch on your stove (say its only 3 gallons) you should achieve a higher efficiency of grain conversion, meaning you should be able to hit your predicted O.G. every time. this is important because you would like to hit your target ABV. also, when doing the full boil, you are incorporating all the ingredients, should get a more vigourous boil, you can reach some of the grains buried in the middle of the bag. IMO, you lose control over the final product when adding water, especially if its tap water and you have no idea whats in the water, because again it takes a long time to boil and sterlize another 2 gallons of water. if you buy bottled water, that adds another cost, and you still have no idea what is in it. bad water really ruins a beer like no other.
i like brewing the 3 gallon batches in the plastic better bottles. easier to handle and move around. easier to clean. i also like to make two batches of 3 gallons with the nearly the same ingredients, but lets say i pitch one kind of yeast in batch 1 and another kind of yeast in batch 2. then i compare the two. it might be the yeast, or the base grain, or the specialty grains... but you can change one of them and then see how it affects your taste when you compare the batches side by side. i just did this with my wheat beers - one got 1007, the other got 3333 yeast.
to figure your recipe, i like to use hopville beer calculus and specifiy if its a 5 gallon or 3 gallon batch. if i want to make 5 gallons, i just make ~ 2.5 gallons twice and combine all the wort in the fermentation carboy. i no longer dilute it with water. yes, this takes twice as long to brew 5 gallons, but i have found the taste and quality to be so much better.
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Klevin Torborg said...
OK, so I brewed my first batch on Saturday. It is sitting in the fermentor and started bubbling w/in 24 hours, but now, 3 days after brewing,it has really slowed down already - to the point where there are bubbles in the airlock but it is not actively blowing bubbles. Is that normal?
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TX Sparty said...
Yeah, I did that with a Breakfast Stout clone, let it age and the coffee mellowed out. Coffee can be tricky. I had two buddies who did the breakfast stout right before I did. The first one used the amount of coffee the recipe called for and it was way too strong. The second one used half and it was still too strong. I used probably a third of what the recipe called for and the coffee flavor was still dominate.
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Homebrew Crew - what you been brewing?, Part Deux